Ever felt that urge to escape the ordinary and immerse yourself in something truly unique? For cycling enthusiasts, especially those bitten by the cyclocross bug, there's a pilgrimage to be made: a journey to the heartland of 'cross, Belgium. Daniel McMahon, a seasoned writer and cyclist with experience covering the Tour de France, decided to trade the familiar roads for the muddy fields of Belgian cyclocross. This wasn't just another trip; it was a quest to experience the sport in its purest form.
As Daniel's friend wisely pointed out, everyone has their own idea of the perfect vacation. While some dream of sun-soaked beaches, Daniel's wanderlust is fueled by two wheels. He's had the privilege of riding in cycling's most iconic locations, from Marin County to Mallorca, and has reported on prestigious races like the Tour de France. Yet, a crucial experience remained unchecked on his bucket list: a visit to the cyclocross epicenter of the world.
An unexpected event catalyzed this journey. A collarbone fracture during a training ride in September brought Daniel's own amateur cyclocross season in Chicago to an abrupt halt. Restless with enforced inactivity, he found himself longing for the thrill of the race. Long walks offered some solace, but the trainer could only hold his attention for so long. Then, the idea struck him: "I'm going to Belgium to watch cyclocross races." It was a simple, yet profound decision, finally transforming a long-held dream into reality.
You might expect Daniel to have planned his trip around the famed Kerstperiode, the Christmas period in Belgium. This is when cyclocross races happen almost daily, featuring the biggest stars in the sport. But here's where it gets controversial... Daniel consciously chose mid-November instead. His cycling buddies tried to steer him towards the Kerstperiode, with its legendary races in Namur, Hulst, Diegem, and Zonhoven. However, Daniel wanted something different. He was seeking exciting racing, group racing, racing before the arrival of cyclocross titans like Mathieu van der Poel, Wout van Aert, and Tom Pidcock. While he admires their talent, he observed that their presence often turns races into dominant solo performances. "I still watch, but it's not the same," he admits.
And this is the part most people miss... There were practical considerations, too. Daniel's trip spanned nearly a week and a half, and with only four days of racing planned, he wanted ample time for exploration. Belgium, after all, offers much more than just bike racing. Traveling in the off-season also presented advantages: fewer tourists, lower prices, easier travel, and a more relaxed atmosphere. Think of it like visiting a popular tourist destination during its shoulder season – you get to experience the essence of the place without the overwhelming crowds.
Daniel's pilgrimage began with a flight to Brussels, followed by an hour-long train ride to Ghent, which served as his home base. His centrally located Airbnb cost about half the price of high-season rentals and was a convenient 20-minute walk from the Dampoort railway station. The attic studio, while modest, offered stunning sunrise views of Ghent's iconic skyline and its three famous spires.
He opted for public transportation over renting a car. While Uber is available in Belgium, Daniel primarily relied on the SNCB train app and the De Lijn tram/bus app for planning and purchasing tickets. Public transit in Belgium is generally reliable, but trains are prone to delays. One day, there were "animals on the track," and another day, a bridge malfunction caused a disruption. Despite these minor inconveniences, ticket prices were affordable, with most round-trip day tickets costing around €15.
Belgium may be small, but train travel can be time-consuming, often requiring multiple transfers. If Daniel were to repeat the trip with friends, he would consider renting a car to streamline travel. Also, be warned: trams to and from races can get incredibly crowded, potentially requiring you to wait for subsequent trams.
At heart, Daniel is a romantic who appreciates train travel, especially in Europe. It allows him to relax, soak in the scenery, and interact with locals. Before the trip, he learned some basic Dutch phrases, as it's the predominant language in Flanders. However, he found that almost everyone spoke English. Note that most signs and announcements are in Dutch and French, but not English. The conductors were always helpful and willing to explain things in English. Knowing some French proved useful in Brussels, where it is widely spoken.
This trip marked Daniel's first experience with the Google Translate mobile app. While he didn't use it much for spoken conversations, it proved invaluable for translating signs, plaques, menus, and newspaper articles. He even used it to translate an entire cycling-related article from Dutch to English. Although the translations weren't always perfect, they were sufficient for understanding the gist of the text.
To combat jetlag on his first day, Daniel made a conscious effort to stay active and awake. He spent the afternoon exploring Ghent's historic center, with its cobblestone streets, picturesque canals, and vibrant town squares. That weekend coincided with the European Cyclocross Championships in Middelkerke, a coastal town. Daniel planned to attend the races on Sunday. However, to his surprise, he struggled to find a pub showing Saturday's races on TV. Instead, he encountered rugby and football matches. You win some, you lose some.
After a good night's sleep, Daniel embarked on his journey to Middelkerke on Sunday. A 45-minute train ride to Ostend was followed by a tram ride along the beach. He knew he was on the right tram when he spotted the distinctive yellow-and-orange X2O duck hats worn by fellow cyclocross enthusiasts. The short walk from the Middelkerke tram stop to the race entrance was exhilarating. He could hear the announcer calling the junior men's race in the distance. The sheer size of the crowd struck him. Thousands of people were making the pilgrimage to this sacred place: kids, older folks, families, speaking various languages, and waving colorful flags.
So, what do you think? Did Daniel's experience inspire you to plan your own cyclocross pilgrimage? Do you agree with his decision to avoid the Kerstperiode, or would you prefer to witness the sport's biggest stars in action? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!
